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LED masks - innovation or marketing bluff?

Published on 19.03.25
Masque led
LED masks have invaded the cosmetic market, promising miracles for the skin. Celebrities and influencers are touting their effectiveness against acne, redness and skin ageing. But behind the hype lies a more nuanced reality. While the effects of light on the body have been well documented, are these consumer devices really effective? Dr Ambroise Champion spoke on this subject on the RTS talk show On en parle. Analysis.

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Photobiomodulation, a proven medical technique

Exposure to certain wavelengths of light to stimulate biological responses, known as photobiomodulation, is not a recent idea. The technique has been scientifically recognised since 1903, when the Nobel Prize for Medicine was awarded for work on light and its therapeutic effects. First used by NASA in the 1990s to help astronauts compensate for the lack of natural light, it was then incorporated into the medical field. Today, it is used in radiation oncology to reduce some of the side effects of radiotherapy. Dr Ambroise Champion, a specialist in radiation oncology, explains: ‘In oncology, the photobiomodulation technique is used to reduce inflammation, attenuate skin lesions or irritation, promote healing and have a pain-relieving effect.

Hôpital de La Tour uses photobiomodulation in oncology to reduce the side effects of radiotherapy. This technique is based on the application of a low-intensity laser, which stimulates cell regeneration and reduces pain. Photobiomodulation is particularly recommended for soothing skin irritations and treating oral lesions frequently induced by breast and ENT cancer treatments. Painless and without contraindications, it can be used both as a preventive measure and as a complement to treatment to improve patients' quality of life.
 

LED masks: questionable effectiveness

LED masks promise spectacular results on the skin by using lights of different colours: blue to treat acne, red to prevent skin ageing, green to attenuate scars. But can these devices be compared to a medical device? In hospitals, these technologies are highly calibrated, complying with strict standards in terms of wavelength and power. In comparison, the versions sold to the consumer market vary considerably in quality. To be effective, the light must penetrate the skin with sufficient intensity, a parameter rarely detailed by manufacturers.

Risks to consider

While the ineffectiveness of a low-end LED mask seems to be the main drawback, there are more worrying risks. Some devices may emit uncontrolled wavelengths, or even ultraviolet rays, which are known to promote premature skin ageing and the risk of skin cancer. The lack of certification and strict controls on these devices raises doubts about their safety.
Dr Champion warns: ‘A poorly calibrated device can transmit inappropriate wavelengths, or even harmful ultraviolet rays. It is therefore crucial to ensure the reliability of the device used."

Conclusion: proceed with caution

The hype surrounding LED masks is partly based on sound science, but their application in the cosmetic field still requires in-depth study. While photobiomodulation is a promising technology, its effectiveness depends on a number of factors, including the power and precision of the wavelengths used. Until the market is better regulated, it is advisable to be careful and opt for certified devices.